Drum roll please........
I restained and painted our kitchen dining table!
This was a major redo project that I have been just DYING to do this summer, but I've put it off, until now. I'm not going to lie... I was scared. Really scared actually. I didn't want to start this project and mess it up because I had no idea what I was doing... so I researched, and researched. After a few weeks of building up the courage to destroy my table and then basically refinish it to look like new, I decided to just start one day. And I did it!
So... for those that are looking for instructions on how I did it, here's the instructions!
First, gather your supplies. Here is a list, but I also provide pictures because when I was researching to do my own table, pictures really helped me see exactly what product they were using.
- Black and Decker Random Orbit Sander: I got it from Amazon here
- Mirka Hook and Loop Sanding Disks (these were awesome because it came with 10 of 5 different grits): I got them here
- Medium Grit (80 is fine) Sanding block/wedge
- Minwax Wood Finish Stain in Dark Walnut
- Minwax Wipe on Poly in Clear Satin
- Rustoleum High Performance Spray Paint in White
- Paper Towels
- Disposable Vinyl Gloves
- Tack Cloth (I recommend buying 2)
- Cheapo Foam brushes (big pack from Walmart)
- Cheap Respirator Mask
- GOGGLES/GLASSES (you need these unless you want your eyes to water all day-trust me, I know now)
- Newspaper
- Painter's tape
Optional:
- Zinsser Spray Primer in White
- Minwax Finishing Paste
Now! Let's get started.
1) Stripping the Table
Wash down your table and chairs with a warm soapy rag and then dry it. Put on your respirator, goggles, and gloves. Get out your random orbit sander and put an 80 grit hook and loop sandpaper on it. Start sanding with the grain in long sweeping motions up and down wherever you want to stain your wood. It should look very birchy and smell like raw wood once all of the veneer is off. Do the same to your chairs. Take your medium grit sanding block/wedge and go over the legs and the rest of the wood pieces that will be painted later. They just need to be roughed/scratched up enough (don't take off the veneer-too much work!) so the paint will adhere better.
Before
After
Get out the warm soapy rag again, and possibly a vacuum. Wipe down the table, floors, all surrounding areas (or if you have the room, move the table to a new area). Vacuum up as much dust as you can. This is important for staining because you don't want any dust flecks to dry in the stain. Now, get out your tack cloth and go over the table and chairs once more. Once you are sure there is no dust anywhere in sight, crack open your can of Minwax Wood Finish Stain. Stir well. Using a cheapo foam brush, dip it into the can and "paint" the table in long strokes with the grain. Let sit for 15 minutes, then take a paper towel and wipe it off with the grain. Your table is probably thirst so not a ton will come off, although your paper towel should look dark brown/black. Let dry for the allotted time on the can (I believe 4 hours). Do this with the rest of the chairs.
After the 4 hours, take a 120 grit sanding paper and lightly sand--with the grain. Use your tack cloth and wipe off the extra dust. Now, stain the table again. Wait 4 hours, sand, and stain. You can pretty much do this as many times as you like until you get the right color and feel... the trick is sanding in between coats. It is what will make sure your table comes out nice and smoooooth. And to be honest, I did this process 4 times...
3) Painting the Table
Now's the fun part! Using newspaper and painters tape, completely cover and tape off the chair tops and table top (I took the legs off my table top). Be extremely meticulous with this part! Any parts showing will become white and then you will have to sand/restain all over again. And that just sucks. So make sure every inch that has been stained on the tops is covered. (I chose to stain first, rather than paint later because in other tutorials, the stain dripped and was much harder to fix over the already white painted parts)
Wipe down your chairs one more time-just to be sure they are clean. Put your furniture in a well ventilated area, put on your gloves and mask, and grab either your bottle of primer or paint. I chose to prime first, but I feel it's really optional. I wanted all the extra durability I could get, but I have a feeling these chairs would hold up well without the primer because the spray paint is very durable itself.
If you choose, put your chairs down forward with their legs sticking up backwards. Spray the legs, then flip them up and finish. Prime your chairs and table using long feathery strokes back and forth. You don't need to get every inch, but definitely focus on areas that will be touched/handled the most. Let dry. I waited 15 minutes and then began spray painting. Using the same feathering technique (stay 8-12 inches away), and lightly cover the chairs, table, and legs in one coat. Wait 15 minutes, then do it again. I did 3 coats, and retouched areas individually after they were pretty much dry.
Let dry for an entire day. Take off the newspaper... and whala! You have yourself a brand spankin' new set of table and chairs that look beautiful and will last forever! (I didn't choose to finish the table with poly or wax because I have used this spray paint forever, and it lasts on it's own pretty well.. But if you want, I would finish with Minwax finishing paste) Plus.. the best part about spray paint is that you can fix any nicks or scratches extremely easily thereafter! Enjoy your new table set... I know I will be!
Look how pretty that table top is! I just love how the stain brought out the individual wood pieces in the top.... It's gorgeous!And here is my adorable husband taking a nap after a long day of helping his wife destroy and redo their furniture... How did I get so lucky!?


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